Join me...

on my journey to lands I have dreamed of visiting, and lands I have never imagined visiting.  At the end of each post are my observations of the culture, the politics, and the people  - commentary encouraged!

A grateful thank you to my mother and my aunt, who made it all possible!  Thanks also to staff of Seabourn Encore, who made it fun, and ridiculously and elegantly over the top.

Dubai, UAE

Dubai, UAE

Dubai is the most modern city/state of all seven emirates (kingdoms) in the United Arab Emirates.  Ultramodern architecture and skyline, where everything is “the biggest” and “the best”.  With our tour guide Shah, we visited a mosque, toured a high-end market (souk), visited the Jumeira Beach for our first view of the Burj Al Arabe, took a ferry to Old Dubai, and visited the King’s Palace.  Details from his tour follow below photos.

Dinner at Burj Al Arabe, "the world's most luxurious 7 star hotel"... recall the scene of the amazing the Agassi and Federer tennis game, and Tiger Woods and Rory McIllroy driving golf balls into the sea?  It happened here.  This visit with Roger Federer is a good view into the Burj Al Arab, but this video really captures the grand scale.  (Here is a fun video for Lynn and Linda).

 

 

Tour of Burj Khalifa, currently the tallest structure in the world (the photo at the top of this page shows the view from the top).

Observations per our “local” guide Shah*:

Religion/Culture:

  • As the most modern of the kingdoms, there is no dress code in Dubai

  • A girl is a “gift from God”, it is good luck for two weeks for a baby girl, good luck for two days for a baby boy…

  • Public affection is illegal

  • 70% are men in Dubai – they must leave when 60!

  • No one with a passport stamp from Israel is allowed in any Muslim country

  • A UAE citizen can go in any country but Israel

  • Drugs? Lifetime jail for both buyers and sellers throughout GCCs, and after jail, banned from GCC

  • $500 fine for littering, if you have no money, you go to jail

  • Police can be wearing civilian clothes

  • CCTV throughout – you are always being watched! "That is ok if you are doing nothing wrong." 😉

  • "No crime or homelessness in Dubai"

  • Shah has (illegal) VPN on phone – if he were found out, it would be 3 months jail, and a 50k AED fine

  • Muslim men cannot wear gold (too feminine, a woman’s decoration), silk, velvet, or alcoholic perfume

  • If locals marry each other, they get a new home and $20k - if woman is 35+, $40k

  • White head scarves identify UAE/water tribes; red check scarves signify Saudi/mountain tribes

The King – Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid:

  • Has 5 wives, 9 sons and 14 daughters (only 3 have been seen)

  • First wife is never seen, second is popular (and young)

  • King owns 3,000 horses around the world

  • No police patrol the King’s palace – anyone can walk right up

Economy:

  • Half of the people in Dubai are tourists

  • 927 hotels – every other new building is a hotel

  • 500 mosques

  • 98% of goods are imported

  • Japan is biggest oil consumer

  • UAE was the first country to "appreciate immigrant bans", in 2013 UAE had already banned certain countries (Shah: "if it was a “Muslim ban”, it would have been 100 countries")

  • Would solar power work? Panels get too dusty – rain only 2-3x per year.

  • Currency: $1 = 3.67 AED fixed (dirham)

  • The value of the dollar never changes in the GCC - The Gulf Cooperation Council is a regional political organization comprising the energy rich Gulf monarchies – Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, and the United Arab Emirates.

* All “local” tour guides are foreigners!  There are only 14% locals in Dubai.  Our guide Shah is from Afghanistan.  He says Obama was too getting too friendly with countries in the Middle East, and that Trump was well liked here because “he means what he says” (referring to Syrian red line).  “At least he is doing something”.  “Obama could have been a better actor – he was better at being cool than being reflective about what countries (in the Middle East) needed.”  “Refugees [with no documentation] can easily reassign themselves from another country (and do).”

Observations:

Two things gave me an eery feeling about the survival of Western culture (and Christianity?):

  1. First, population growth - it is not news that Muslims are having relatively more babies than non-Muslims (Pew research).

  2. But another noteworthy observation - there is so much growth and construction in the Arabian Kingdoms, and in the Middle East (more here)... missing is the Western obsession with feelings and identity. Everywhere people are working:

37% of the world's cranes are working in Dubai - 24 hours a day.

Doha, Qatar

Doha, Qatar